Paint and Tools Custom Tutorial
Overview on tools and paints you'll need to start customizing.
This custom tutorial was contributed by Jin Saotome
Here we will take a look at virtually everything you need to be a great Customizer!

* Tools: What kind and where to buy them.
* Paints: What brands and links to buy them.
* Parts: Well, just save EVERYTHING you buy.

Ok... you're sitting there with a knife, an action figure, and some paints you stole from art class. Unfortunately you're going to need a LOT more than that to pump out quality customs. Fortunately for you I have just the Tutorial on just about everything you'll need to start customizing along with the big boys!
Tools
First we're going to start with a basic list of all the items you're going to need at your disposal. Most of these items can be found at Ace Hardware Stores and Wal-mart. Only things like the paint brushes and paints themselves are a little more difficult to obtain, but not that difficult.

Take a look below, these are the tools I use everyday. Each item is numbered so check the list for its name and location of purchase.

I use to recommend Milliput and Kneadite for your sculpting needs, but now there's something FAR better to use, Aves Studios 'Apoxie Sculpt'! This is a two-part modelling compound you mix together that self-hardens after a few hours. You can make armor, muscles, faces, anything you want out of it!
Storage
Need a place to put all that stuff? Buy one of those tool-containers from Wal-Mart or a hardware store, the ones with all the little pull-out drawers if you want to keep your stuff organized. Like this one.
Fodder
So what are you going to use as "fodder" for your customizing antics? Aside from a base figure you're going to need parts. I got my collection of parts by saving every toy and accessory I've ever bought. You can hit garage sales and pick up broken figures, vehicles, anything with parts that come off it. Save all your weapons and accessories no matter how mundane they are. Every time you make a figure and have pieces left over, toss em in a box. Yeah your friends will think you're weird when they see a box full of amputated limbs and heads sitting on your floor, but you'll never have to scrounge for that piece you need!
Paints
Now comes the FUN part, the paints! Paints are VERY important and usually make or break a custom figure. You don't want to use those craft paints you get at Wal-Mart, they're chalky and don't stick well. Instead you'll want to pick up some Testors Model Master Acrylic paints and Games Workshop Citadel Colour paints. Why? Because they are the absolute BEST. No fooling around here. They mix together well, dilute (and clean up) with water, and they don't rub off very easily from your figure! These paints also last forever if kept out of direct sunlight and you make sure their lids are clean and tight. Let's take a look below at what the paint bottles look like.

Now these paints won't be found at your local Wal-Mart. You need to travel to a Specialty Hobby Shop, or to a Games Workshop retail shop (usually found in big malls). I recommend getting them Online however. They're actually cheaper than what the hobby stores charge, they always have the colors in stock, and 3-5 day shipping usually is only around $5.00 per order.

Games Workshop has a very nice paint set called the "Mega paint Set" that includes a jar of EVERY different kind of paint they make, base flocking, gravel, glue, and other stuff for their miniatures. It's $200.00, but it will probably last you forever. You can also order the paint jars separately which is what I do.

Testors paints are a little different. They sell Enamels and Acrylics, but you only want the Acrylic-style paints. The best paints that you'll want are the Model Master Fantasy Acrylic series and the Model Master Acryl Acrylics. The Fantasy Acrylic line is EXCELLENT. In fact, you MUST buy a jar of the Dragon White and Dragon Black paints. These are the absolute best white and black paints I have ever used. They cover well and usually in one coat. They do not come off easily, in fact the Dragon Black paint won't even come off with alcohol! They both dilute to make a perfect wash, and look awesome when dry brushed for highlights. I recommend the Testors Fantasy series over all others I've tried so far!

You'll notice there's the Tamiya Color paint in there as well. I only use their clear colors (clear red, green, blue, yellow) for painting and don't like their normal line, tho some people swear by them. The paint brushes can be found at Michael's Craft Stores and those specialty hobby shops. Take care when picking out your brushes, check the tips VERY carefully before buying them. in general you'll need 4-5 good brushes. One for large coverage areas, a stiffer cheap one for dry brushing and wash's, a smaller general brush for base coats, and a few tiny tipped brushes for details such as eyes and belt buckles. I don't really have a preference between natural or synthetic brushes. Camel Hair is really good though.
Disclaimer
Customize at your own risk!

Customizing can be a fun, but dangerous hobby. These tutorials are contributed by other customizers. Some of the things recommended in the tutorials may be dangerous, such as the use of boiling water or sharp objects. You shouldn't attempt anything mentioned without adult permission and supervision. Figure Realm and/or the authors of the tutorials are not liable for any injuries or damages occurring from any attempt to follow suggestions in these tutorials.

User Comments
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Daremo -
Sunday, February 5, 2023
Anyone using army painter paints for Legends? They have a chalky finish and rub off...just bought a speed paint set and thinking of returning it.
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Daremo -
Tuesday, January 25, 2022
Hi, has anyone used Michael's FX line or Meeden acrylic paints? There are a lot of new paint lines and some of the older ones like Testors are hard to find.
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thewiddler -
Monday, February 3, 2020
I'm planning on buying Citadel paints. I've looked at Amazon, where they have a pick 5. All I want is the primary colors, black and white, and I want them to have the same consistency, so that way they mix well. I'm assuming base paints would be the best option, since those can diluted for layering, ect.. The problem is, they have weird names. If I'm wanting primary base citadel paints, what are their color names?
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Henchmen4Hire -
Wednesday, July 15, 2020
Citadel is junk (IMO anyway). They're overpriced and aren't very durable. I use the Vallejo Game/Model lines for handpainting, as well as the Mecha line for airbrushing. You can usually get them for about $3 a pop if you look for sales, which still isn't great but it's better than almost 5 bucks a pop like other lines. They also won't dry out the way Citadel does with their cruddy lids.
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Rakehell -
Sunday, July 23, 2017
I'm having trouble finding the colors I want in the same finish in Testor's Acrylic. For instance, I wanted to do satin in Leather Brown but could only find flat. Will this be a problem looking bad on the figure because I was going to use dark green in satin. Didn't know if mixing it up would be an eyesore? I also was going to put a satin varnish on the entire figure once it was completely painted, so would it really make a difference what finish it is since the whole figure will be varnished? This is my first figure. Have done some custom hot wheels before. Going to do Grifter of the Wildcats. Getting ready to invest more money than I really want to and I don't want to waste it.
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Henchmen4Hire -
Saturday, July 29, 2017
What looks "good" is subjective. Some people like different sheens/finishes on a piece, some people like the same sheen everywhere, do what you like.

Yeah, you can change the sheen of paint with varnishes, sealers, etc. After painting a figure, I use flat, satin, and gloss varnishes to get the sheens I want.

Eyes, lips, blood, etc usually gets some gloss. Things like leather or metal bits usually gets some satin or semi-gloss. Skin, clothes, etc I usually pair with flat.

I think most people just use satin varnish on their figures, it's hard to differentiate finishes when a fig is on display anyway since it's usually a few feet away.
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maxt2246 -
Wednesday, July 12, 2017
Sorry this for Jin, I'm wanting to paint the greg capullo yellow bat belt to a more darker bronze Affleck bvs belt. Can it be painted over top of the yellow? I'm new to model painting just getting into anything I need to know for this project? Thanks
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Mfurubu -
Sunday, November 13, 2016
Can you post a picture of Dragon Black and Dragon White acrylics? Please and thanks.
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Henchmen4Hire -
Saturday, January 21, 2017
I think their fantasy line was discontinued a while ago. It doesn't matter though, their usual acrylics work just as well (varying by color).
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Murgyatno -
Monday, September 28, 2015
Thanks a lot Dr Nightmare..
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Murgyatno -
Friday, August 21, 2015
If we mistake use enamel, can we double paint it with acrylic as a fix way? I also had experience Gundam marker GM301sticky. So why they produce it? Gundam already plastic too, right?
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Henchmen4Hire -
Saturday, August 29, 2015
You can paint acrylic over enamel, as long as the enamel has fully cured. You can't paint enamel over acrylic because it may dissolve the acrylic and make it sticky.

There are different types of plastics, experiment on trash piece to see what works for you.
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DARTHGRIMM -
Saturday, May 30, 2015
Does anyone make a brush on acrylic primer?
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Henchmen4Hire -
Saturday, August 29, 2015
Testors and Games Workshop make brush on primers, I'm sure other brands do too. I don't know if they're acrylic, but they're designed to be used with the brands' acrylic paints.
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x-force wolverine -
Tuesday, March 25, 2014
hey dude in case I want o mix a color for making gold what color should I use in mixing because our shop here ran out of gold acrylic what color should I mix thanks dude
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Chronomancer -
Thursday, March 26, 2015
in one of his guides he mentions base coating the figure silver, then using CLEAR yellow over the silver one the silver dries, that combi usually makes a good GOLD shine,
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Phreakotic -
Wednesday, July 3, 2013
I used testors and the figure I had didn't dry for over a year, the citadel paint went on good but it came off super easy. I didn't use primer of any kind so maybe that has something to do with it. Help would be very much appreciated, I've been stuck for a while.
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KirkyMonster1983 -
Sunday, July 7, 2013
I use Testors and usually they work fine for me, but I have experienced something odd with it not drying properly on the soft rubber plastic like Sota Street fighter hands. Is your custom soft plastic?
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Phreakotic -
Wednesday, July 10, 2013
Yeah, it was arms for a wrestling figure. It also might have been the super sculpy clay.
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SirDigbyChickenCesear -
Wednesday, May 2, 2012
hola, I'm using a model masters enamel flat black for a primer. For my project, the "dries tacky" problem doesn't really concern me... Is that the only issue with that product? I'm new to the enamels, and the guy at the hobbie shop said it was a good product. Like I said, I'm only using it for a primer coat and all seems to be working well, I'm using multiple light coats and only applying after the newest coat is 100 percent dry. I'm planning on posting the finished figure, so any input on repainting a McFarlanes Halo 3 figure would be most beneficial. GRACIAS!
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TommyGunn79 -
Tuesday, October 4, 2011
Testors acrylic usually dries almost instantly, if your using testors enamel you will get that effect. when I first started doing customs I made the mistake of using enamel...dries tacky. I hope tis is helpful to you
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gbyadig -
Tuesday, October 4, 2011
How do I get my Testors to dry? it seems to still be sticky for 2 days already...
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